Fired Up!
If you’ll be spending time in front of a grill (and you will be—it’s summer!), it’s time to turn up the heat on your techniques.
From now through Labor Day, nothing speaks of the season (or smells of it) better than meats grilled up on backyard barbecues. But simply owning an apron and a set of stainless-steel cooking tools won’t make you a Grilling God like James Laird, the award-winning chef and owner of Restaurant Serenade in Chatham. Laird opened up his kitchen (and his personal recipe files) to serve up his rules to grill by, so you can wow your guests all summer long. With his help, you’ll have them wanting more.
Better Burgers: The key to a juicy hamburger comes down to just three ingredients: “Plain old good meat, salt, and pepper,” Laird says. Opt for ground beef that’s 80 percent lean, remember to account for carry-over cooking, and let the burger rest so it stays juicy. Then jazz it up with condiments that go beyond the ordinary lettuce, tomato, and ketchup. Laird suggests trying spicy avocado sauce, chili peppers, and corn salsa. You can have fun with cheeses, too. You want something delicate, like an aged cheddar—nothing that’s too strong or overpowering. And no burger is complete without its bookends: For better buns, spread a little butter on the inside and throw ’em on the grill until lightly toasted.
Sizzling Steaks: The correct level of doneness comes down to personal preference, but Laird makes it clear that medium-rare is the way to go: “I’d say 95 percent of the meat I cook is served that way.” Dry rubs are great for enhancing flavor in quality cuts like sirloin. For Laird’s own concoction, “Serenade’s Smokin’ Hot BBQ Rub,” see the recipe on the previous page.
Kickin’ Chicken: Those boneless, skinless chicken breasts you buy at the supermarket are fine, but Laird prefers poultry on the bone. “Things kept on the bone shrink less,” he points out. The bone also protects the meat to keep it moister and adds flavor to boot. To that end, grill up your bird with the skin on. “You can always take it off when it’s time to eat,” he says.
Flavorful Fish: Steer clear of flaky fish like flounder, and throw down something with some healthy fats and substance. Swordfish, tuna, and salmon are good choices, as is shrimp on a skewer. Add flavor with parsley, thyme, lemon zest, or cilantro, or try brushing on oils infused with chili or pepper. “You want heat, but also sweetness and herbs for a nice, deep, layered flavor,” Laird says.
Hot-Diggity Dogs: Nothing is easier to throw on the grill than a hot dog, and the secret to serving up a good one is simply to buy a good one. And hot dogs have come a long way from the standard ballpark fare. Today you can even buy dogs made with kobe beef. “It sounds crazy, but it’s just a little less expensive than filet mignon,” Laird says. “Not much, though, and your guests are worth it.”
Extra Helpings
- Be careful when grilling with a wet marinade. Laird himself is not a big fan. “Marinade changes the texture of meat so it becomes heavier,” he says. “And most have a lot of sugar, and that burns on the grill. Charring is not good. A burnt taste isn’t good.” In fact, nutritional research has shown charring to be carcinogenic.
- Consider cooking whole instead of in pieces, especially if you’re feeding a large group. Last summer, Laird hosted a goat roast in his own backyard and served dozens of guests. Or try a whole rack of pork ribs, which is hard to mess up. And a five-pound snapper instead of individual pieces of fish can be fun.
- Buy local. This goes for fruits and vegetables, as well as meats. “Go to farmers markets,” Laird recommends. “Ask questions, even in the supermarket. Ask what’s fresh. It can be hard to tell.”
- There’s no such thing as the perfect pairing when it comes to libations. “Just go with what you like,” says Laird. With wines, he likes something crisp and fruity. For beers, he prefers something like a wheat beer, which has more flavor.
- Think outside the box. Grills are no longer strictly the purview of meats. Get creative with your grilling, and try your hand at vegetables and fruits. Laird is a fan of pineapple with pink peppercorns. And he’s even got a barbecued dessert: A grilled peach served with vanilla ice cream. It’s a perfectly sweet finish to a perfectly savory meal.
New Jersey native James Laird is a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America. The New York Times named him one of the top classically trained chefs in the state, and he is the first Garden State chef to be bestowed the prestigious Robert Mondavi Winery Culinary Award of Excellence. Restaurant Serenade is located at 6 Roosevelt Avenue in Chatham (www.restaurantserenade.com).
